Forecasts of extremely hot weather, freezing temperatures or rain are the worst times for a concrete pour. Weather that is too hot will cause the cement to dry too quickly, ruining the curing process.
Rainy days are not advisable because the extra water interferes with the proper water-to-concrete ratio of any good concrete mix.
And as stated already, you really only get one shot at this, unless you want to spend twice the money and time. Too much water in the mix leads to cracking, while too much cement can result in the concrete being impossible to pour and smooth out.
Understand and precisely follow the instructions for the mixture you choose. Concrete that is overworked before the bleed water has risen to the surface traps too much water in the mix, which weakens the slab and causes the concrete to become cracked.
Strong, heavy-duty tools are absolutely a must when working with concrete. Using the wrong tools results in a shoddy-looking concrete slab. Before mixing the concrete, have these tools ready: a pressure washer, safety goggles, a large wheelbarrow, an electric concrete mixer, a bull float to flatten the surface, a magnesium float for bumps, tools to create the concrete form, a broom, a brush, an edger, a finishing trowel, gloves and buckets.
Whenever taking on a serious DIY project, safety precautions should be considered. Pouring a concrete slab is a fairly safe process, but there are a few important steps to take to remain protected while mixing and pouring concrete. Wear long pants and sleeves. Use safety glasses and earplugs. Utilize alkali-resistant gloves and rubber boots.
Trying to pour and finish a concrete slab by yourself is the surest way to fail. Take the stress out of home improvement and ensure a lovely, smooth patio surface by calling on our pros. Not Being Properly Prepared The most common issue do-it-yourselfers have when pouring concrete is not being thoroughly prepared. If your concrete is sitting on top of loose soil, it will quickly start to crack, crumble, and degrade as the soil settles. This involves using a plate compactor to make sure the soil is tightly packed, carefully leveling the surface, and building, installing, and leveling forms borders.
Weather conditions like rain and wind can damage your concrete in the hours and days after you pour it. Using the wrong tools can leave you with an uneven surface and lead to bumps, holes, and cracks. Strong, heavy-duty tools are necessary when working with concrete since wooden or plastic tools can snap while you work. One of the most common DIY concrete mistakes is using the wrong amounts of water and dry concrete. The ratio of water to dry concrete in your mixture is very important to the appearance and durability of your concrete surface.
Wet concrete should not be runny or chunky, but smooth and malleable. But even a small excess of water tends to weaken your concrete mixture, leading to a runny, uneven pour and compromising the strength of your concrete.
Concrete is a relatively safe material to work with. Open the bags of all-purpose gravel and pour them into the slab construction site. Use the tamper tool to compact and flatten the gravel. After it is first poured out, the gravel sub-base will be about 1 inch too high. However, tamping will bring down the level to its correct height. Mark off four sections of the two-by-fours each measuring 3 feet, 3 inches, and use the circular saw or electric miter saw to cut them.
Drive the 16d galvanized nails into the boards to build the form. Place the form on the sub-base. Cut four scrap pieces of two-by-four to about 12 inches long and sharpen each one to a point one end only. Pound each stake into the ground near a corner of the form. With the cordless drill , screw each stake into a side of the form to help stabilize it. Coat the inside of the form with vegetable oil or a concrete-form release agent, such as Kleen Kote's water-based release agent.
With the garden hose, lightly wet down the sub-base. With the wheelbarrow, hoe, and hose, mix the ready-mix concrete according to the manufacturer's specifications. When it has a peanut-butter-like consistency, pour it into the form. Push the concrete around the form with the hoe and with gloved hands.
With a scrap 4-foot-long piece of two-by-four, screed the top of the concrete slab. This is done by moving the piece of lumber the screed back and forth in a sawing motion to level the concrete and remove excess. Let the excess drop off the side for later removal. After screeding, tap all around the outside of the form with a hammer. This will remove air and spaces on the edges that would give a "honeycomb" look.
Let the concrete settle until the surface water evaporates. Then, using a concrete hand float, smooth and compact the surface of the slab. Let the concrete cure for about 48 hours. Keep the slab continually wet by misting with the garden hose and keep it covered with plastic during this period. Full strength is typically achieved after 28 days, though it can be walked on after the two-day period.
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